Retrieval Services (Oversize Load)

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Rivergoer

Rivergoer

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Looking for boat retrieval service at Wahweap, need some help from locals in the Page area please......Thank You In Advance...

Leaving Sunday on the houseboat, coming off the lake Wednesday afternoon. Normally we hire Wahweap Boat Repair/Services to haul out our 12x36 houseboat on our gooseneck trailer and park it in our side yard in Greenehaven. It’s an oversize load so a permit is required but no escort needed.

I launch this boat with my Ram 3500 but find it’s a bit hard on this truck’s automatic transmission hauling up the ramp and backing into my side yard so I like to hire a pro.

Wahweap normally charges $110 for this one-way service and it usually takes about an hour. Unfortunately they have no drivers next week so I’ve been scrambling for options today.

Big Water Boat Storage truck is out of commission.
Aquanuts in Big Water is booked.
Gunsight Transport quoted over $600 + 30% NPS fee, no thanks.
Patty at Lake Powell Marine took my info and will call back tomorrow after she checks with Marlin.

So I’m just looking for additional options should we strike out with LPM...anyone in the area know of other options I can consider? Boat + Trailer combined weight is approx 24,000 lbs and trailer is gooseneck.

Here’s a pic of the boat on the trailer.162DA2FB-3929-4672-B91A-95D8E574EE21.jpeg0EE0F82E-F327-4D14-8B05-C5A36142D0D3.jpeg
 
I saw a guy pull out a huge go fast boat from lone rock a few weeks. It is not steep at all. I thought the tires would sink but he came right out on the main spot.

Dry storage would have been my first call, they have plenty of horsepower.
 
I think if I were you I would just upgrade the transmission on the truck, and then do the launch and retrieve yourself. Either that, or use it as an excuse to upgrade the truck - the new RAMs are rated to tow something silly like 35,000 pounds.
 
Ryan said:
I think if I were you I would just upgrade the transmission on the truck, and then do the launch and retrieve yourself. Either that, or use it as an excuse to upgrade the truck - the new RAMs are rated to tow something silly like 35,000 pounds.
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Did the tranny upgrade, weak point remains reverse gear. Backing up the driveway breaks that weak link and no way to beef up reverse (I’m told).

Shoulda bought a Ford LOL
 
DQDanny said:
Rivergoer.....in those few situations where you need the torque......have you considered shifting your truck into 4L? Do that to back into your spot in Greenhaven.....
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Thanks...Agreed.

We launched Sunday at Wahweap. After backing a few hundred feet down the ramp, we stopped and put it in 4L to see how it would pull from a dead stop back up the ramp.

It worked awesome, just creeped along barely using any throttle.

We are over in Warm Creek tonight, planning to use the Ram to pull it out ourselves. Crossing fingers, will post an update tomorrow.
 
Success!

Thanks to all for the advice...we put the Ram Cummins in 4L and creeped up the ramp pulling 24,000 lbs no problem. Trans temp never got over 180. Seems like the 4L setting just locks up and goes, eliminating all that ‘slip’ that generates heat. Moved up the ramp at a fast walking pace but patience paid off.

Backing into the driveway was also a piece of cake. We were very concerned about turning on asphalt in 4L, worried the inability for the wheels to ‘give’ while turning would over-stress the transfer case/differentials.

But my neighbor reassured me (along with you all) that using 4L in Reverse for a short distance would not be a problem...it wasn’t.

So, thanks again to all for the helpful advice. The key is 4L and go slow.

Also, an update on Wahweap Boat Repair...I stopped by today and they confirmed all drivers are out this week in Wyoming picking up vehicles to bring back to Page. They will return to normal Monday through Friday Launch/Retrieve operation May 20, 2019. However they did emphasize No Weekends.
 
Rivergoer....I bet with your new found technique, you be doing all your own launching & retrival....saving $$$$ as well. Is that the first you have had your truck in low range? It is really geared down I'm sure. Not knowing how a Ram's front hubs lock, whether they are automatic or manual, if you have manual locking hubs, you can put the transfer case in 4L, but not lock in the front hubs. This can help a bit on dry roads or sharp turning, but either way you won't really hurt anything. Love Ghaven.....we're looking at Lake Havasu or Ghaven......gotta be around water. Thanks for the follow up & conclusion.
 
Yep the ‘06 Ram has 4Lock and 4Low, both are automatically controlled via a dial on the dash.

Only time I ever used it before was out in the sand at Lone Rock or Glamis and on slick algae covered launch ramps at the River in Parker and at Havasu when the rear wheels couldn’t get traction pulling out boats and watercraft.

Didn’t realize there’s a difference in the “Lock” feature between the two...thought 4Low was just a lower geared version of 4Lock.

So now I’m wondering when would it be beneficial to use 4Lock instead of 4Low?
 
"Lock" means the differential will not slip(both tires, left and right, are directly linked). Old school solid locking differentials could be damaged during a short turn on a hard surface, but I'm not sure how the modern electric actuated units perform in the same conditions(is there an override/slip if a turn is sensed?). I always thought it was funny that a 4-wheel drive with standard diff's was actually only two wheel drive(power only goes to two tires, a front and a rear). Also, in a slippery situation all of the power goes to the wheel with the least grip and is able to spin, I've found this very helpful in the past(sarcasm). 4lock would be most beneficial in the situation where one tire is in the air or in another slippery condition.
 
Actually in this situation 4 lock means 4wd where both differentials are open so only one tire gets power front and rear, like funk described. It is perfectly ok to turn on pavement in either lock or low although if you turn tight the truck will jerk as the front tires slip on the pavement. It feels terrible but as long as your u joints and such are in good shape and not wore out then no harm will be done. If it does break a u joint then it needed replaced anyway. I just avoid tight turns in this situation. 4 low is the same but uses a lower gear in the transfer case, again perfectly fine and puts much less stress on the transmission.
 
Lance Cue said:
Actually in this situation 4 lock means 4wd where both differentials are open so only one tire gets power front and rear, like funk described. It is perfectly ok to turn on pavement in either lock or low although if you turn tight the truck will jerk as the front tires slip on the pavement. It feels terrible but as long as your u joints and such are in good shape and not wore out then no harm will be done. If it does break a u joint then it needed replaced anyway. I just avoid tight turns in this situation. 4 low is the same but uses a lower gear in the transfer case, again perfectly fine and puts much less stress on the transmission.
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I think there is confusion because different makes use various terminology to describe their features. If Ram says "4lock" and it means anything other than the diffs being locked, then that's a pretty dumb thing to call it. Because when differentials are locked, it means both tires turn together... there is no slip. That puts tremendously pressure on the diff gears on a hard surface (especially under a load) and can blow the whole thing to pieces. Like John said, locking diffs are used when one tire has no traction (in the air, sand, mud, etc) and is receiving all the power. My guess is if Ram is calling it 4lock, it's not a true locker and it's electronically using the brakes to create a limited slip effect.
 
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