All right, for those who are interested in knowing a bit more about what I'm doing, and what the guide will cover (and what it won't), here's a teaser that might act as an introduction... still quite a rough draft, but coming along for sure... I'll take any editorial and content suggestions at this point, because it's a work in progress... thanks for reading!
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The Incomplete Guide to Lake Powell
There are many great guidebooks for Lake Powell, as there should be. The place is just too big, too diverse, too dynamic with its constantly changing lake surface levels, to do it justice in one guidebook. And there are too many things to do, and too many ways to experience your time on the lake. And because you can’t put everything in one place, nor should you try, the title
The Incomplete Guide to Lake Powell seemed like the most honest approach.
What This Guide Is Not
If you’re looking for a fishing guide, this isn’t it. There are many expert fishing resources for Lake Powell, none more esteemed than Wayne Gustaveson, who runs an outstanding website (wayneswords.net) dedicated to that near religious practice. In this guidebook, you won’t find much information about lures, bait, depthfinders, the changing seasonal fisheries, best fishing boats, the hidden spots to find the elusive big one. But Wayne and many others on that website will fix you up with that. Besides, I couldn’t help you if I wanted to: I don’t fish.
Similarly, you won’t find a lot of detailed information about how to operate a houseboat, safety regulations on the lake, or a discussion of boat choices depending on the kind of trip you might plan. Again, there are excellent resources on all those topics, both online and in print, and I might start with Alan Silverstein who created silgro.com, an excellent detailed website that among many of its virtues, covers how to safely operate a houseboat. Look no further than this link to become an expert:
Houseboating 101 (at Lake Powell, on the Wildwind).
And if you’re looking for detailed technical information about the hikes in the 96+/- side canyons of the lake, I’m not even going to try to improve on what has been written by Michael Kelsey in his
Boaters Guide to Lake Powell, now in its 6th edition. With incredible detail and unbelievable coverage, if you’re looking for an adventure far from civilization in one of those side canyons, possibly beyond human capability, I’d suggest going straight to that book. My only warning about that book is that when he says something will take you an hour, assume it will take you two.
If It’s Not Any of That, Then What Good is This Guide?
I’ve been answering questions related to Lake Powell as a “Destination Expert” on TripAdvisor for many years, and it’s remarkable how consistent the questions are. They usually come in one of a few broad open-ended categories, sounding like desperate pleas for help.
What should I do when I’m on the lake? That sounds something like what a bored 8-year old asks his poor mother. Or even better:
Can you plan my trip for me? These are the kind of Hail Mary questions that are totally understandable, but would require some sort of crystal ball or divining rod to figure out what it is that “floats their boat”, so to speak. Do they want to focus on sightseeing? Do they mind driving their boat a long way? Do they want to mostly see iconic features of the lake? Explore ruins and historical features? Are they hardcore hikers? Or do they just want to relax in the sun with a beer in a secluded spot? Those kind of open-ended questions always elicit more questions than answers.
But then there are a few questions you see less often, but still consistently and repeatedly, and they are very good ones. Ones that I would love to be able to answer definitively on the fly, but just can’t.
Where are the best beaches to anchor my boat? Which are the best canyons to explore in a boat? Where are the best hikes that aren’t too hard? Will I have the time (or ability) to do these things? Really great questions, but so frustrating to answer, because those answers almost always depend on what the lake looks like on the day those people plan to go. And by that I mean,
what is the surface elevation of the lake? That’s everything.
Answering
those questions is what’s at the heart of this guidebook.
This is a guide mostly aimed at the casual explorer, especially those new to Lake Powell, but some of the information is also good for those much more familiar with the lake already, especially with respect to specific locations and logistics planning, notably time and distance when fuel management is an issue. It assumes you know how to operate a boat, or are at least not scared to try that on your own, don’t need to know how to cast a line, but mostly just want to make the most of your few days in paradise with a healthy sense of adventure. It also assumes you have enough time and money to make your trip worth it, because whatever else a trip on Lake Powell is, it is not cheap, between the transportation to get there from wherever you live, the gas in your boat, and the cost of either owning or renting that boat. From time to time throughout the guide, I’ll touch on these topics, but they are not a focus of the wisdom contained in these pages.
Same goes for food preparation. This is not a cookbook, nor a food planning exercise. No question, it is certainly an art to plan for meals on Lake Powell, because you carry everything you have with you, like a supersized backpacking trip. If you have a houseboat, you’ll have a kitchen too, which opens up some options, but at the end of the day, you’ll have to do a lot of prep work to guess right, without buying too much or too little. In my experience, you always end up buying too much, and that’s particularly true for the little things, like condiments, sauces, and things that no one can really agree on. I can say definitively, however, that one jar of pickles is exactly one too many. Again, I will touch on the topic from time to time, but it is not a focus of this guide.
It is also not a psychology text, although I’d recommend reading one before taking a trip to an isolated desert lake with 9 people for a week. You will learn more than you ever thought you knew about those people, even the ones in your own family. You may never want to travel with them again, or on the other hand, you may develop unexpected bonds for life. It is hard to predict how people will handle their days on the lake, away from phones and civilization in general, forced to cooperate and see the best and worst of their friends. My guide does not purport to hold the keys to understanding how to compose your crew, but there is a lot of personal anecdotal information woven throughout that might help you draw your own lines, and to know when to cross them or stay behind, lest someone get hurt.
In one sense, there’s nothing spectacularly new in this guide. The information about beaches, landing spots, hiking opportunities, and making the most of your time is simply the product of experience and research anyone can do. But what is unique is that it is compiled into one place, and how it’s put together.
The guide is organized by geography. The lake is broken into five sections, generally from south to north, because that’s the way most people experience the lake. Most will start near Page, Arizona, from one of the two marinas—Wahweap or Antelope Point—that are near Page. And that’s because Page is really the only real supply center of any size near the lake, a place with motels, restaurants, and large grocery stores. Sure, you can start elsewhere: rent a boat out of Bullfrog 100 miles up the lake, or launch your own from the same spot; approach from Halls Crossing across from Bullfrog; bring you own boat down a rickety dirt road to remote places like Blue Notch, Red, White, or Farley canyons; or trudge across the mudflats at Hite way up at the northern end. But the logistical or planning challenges of those approaches are much greater than starting from Page, and because you have to pick an organizational approach, it’s best to choose the one that makes the most sense to most people. But it doesn’t mean it’s the only way.
Many guides to Lake Powell are organized the way a river runner would approach it—from upstream to downstream. That’s Kelsey’s approach, for example. But there’s no longer an obvious river there anymore (which is another controversial topic not a focus of the book, but touched on throughout), so consequently most river runners don’t spend a lot of time there, and are often sad when they do. But lake lovers do spend time there, and their boats can go in any direction equally well. The buoy system on Lake Powell, by the way, is organized from south to north, essentially starting at Glen Canyon Dam, and working its way upstream. These are critical mile markers for orientation, and since they start on “1”, near the dam, and end up at over “130” near Hite, that seems like a logical way to progress. Remember, the green ones are odd-numbered and on the left as you go upstream, and the red ones are even-numbered and on the right. There’s some nautical rule probably in a sea shanty about “red-right-returning”, but that never made any sense to me because either red or green could just as easily be on the right as you return to some place that no one ever thought about. Better just to remember using some linguistic device that makes sense, or use some modern electronics so you don’t have to think. I suppose it’s true that you will go to the right of the red buoys as you are returning from a long day out on your way back to Wahweap. There it makes some sense. Just don’t confuse me too much.
What’s Actually in the Guide?
These are the five sections in the guide, organized as chapters:
1. Wahweap Bay to Cornerstone Canyon;
2. Dangling Rope to the end of the San Juan River arm;
3. Mouth of the San Juan to the end of the Escalante River arm;
4. Mouth of the Escalante to Halls Crossing; and
5. Bullfrog to Hite and beyond
I gave a lot of thought to that organization, because at first glance, they do not cover an equal distance of the lake. Arguably, the San Juan River arm could (and perhaps should) stand on its own. The pitch from the mouth of the San Juan to the end of the Escalante might only cover 20 miles, while the leg from Wahweap to Cornerstone Canyon is closer to 40. But that stretch from the mouth of the San Juan to the end of the Escalante is one of the most scenic portions of the lake, with numerous very interesting side canyons that I could write about for days. Similarly, the stretch between Dangling Rope and the mouth of the San Juan is nearly as good. Whatever the virtues of the San Juan are to the fisherman (solitude, lots of fish, isolation, lots of fish), it is from an aesthetic or a hiker’s perspective the least interesting part of the lake. The canyons are wider and shorter for boating, there are fewer of them, and the lake is more open and less incised. And while the San Juan has plenty of campsites, they are generally less spectacular and unique than elsewhere on the lake, although it must be said that “less spectacular” at Lake Powell qualifies as “off the charts” almost anywhere else in the world.
Each section is generally organized as follows:
- Canyon Description. Each canyon is described, from south to north, including its proximity to other nearby pplaces and marker buoys;
- Map. A map (with satellite imagery) showing the key features of the canyon, including nearby marker buoys, possible beach sites and landmarks;
- Distance and Time Chart. A chart showing the distance from the mouth of that canyon to many other important places on the lake (such as the marinas, the mouth of the San Juan or Escalante, or Rainbow Bridge), accounting for whether or not certain lake features are in play that may provide shortcuts (notably the Castle Rock Cut); and the time it would take to cover that distance either in a houseboat or a powerboat;
- Navigable Length. The navigable length of that canyon at various lake levels (for some canyons, there is a huge difference);
- Beaches. A discussion of available beaches at different lake levels;
- Hiking Potential. A discussion of the hiking potential of the canyon at different lake levels, and based on physical constraints of the canyon itself (i.e, does it get too narrow to land a boat at the end? Will a kayak make it?), with a description of key hikes;
- Photos. This might be the most important part. This section includes photos of beaches and hikes, including landing spots, with dates and lake levels identified for all photos. Most of the beaches are places where I’ve parked a houseboat, and these spots are shown on the map.
- Notes from Past Experience. And now here’s the unique feature of this guidebook. These are excerpts from various journals I’ve written while on the lake, back to 1992. In each case, the date and lake level are included, in order to provide some sort of context. These are in narrative form, and might comment on detailed features of the canyon, or anecdotes that occurred while in the canyon, or perhaps detailed descriptions of hikes or other incidents that might have occurred in that canyon. Some of these relate to the photos included for the canyon, or certain hikes might be shown on some of the map imagery.
At the end of the day, all that information may be overkill, because many people will just want to cut straight to the photos and maps, which is a perfectly good use of this guide. But if you like to obsess on details, they are there if you want them…