Braided line on spinning gear.
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Chet Garling
Well-Known Member
I have found that 8lb pline casts well on my spinning reels, and it has turned into my go to for walleye, lmb and smb and stripers. I still have one spinner and my trolling/spooning bait caster with braid and fluorocarbon leader.
Not Yet You Bet
Well-Known Member
I tried Cabela's and they are also out of stock on the sale reel. They have the reel, but want full price. I was looking to get one at the half price. I think the ones they had on sale were last years model and now they have changed the color and want full price for the new model. I have three Pflueger reels and like them a lot. Guess I will wait until they put the new ones on sale and then buy. I purchased a Quantum at half price, and will see how I like it.
Dorado
Keeper of San Juan Secrets
Interesting, but he does not say what the diameter or breaking strength of the lines he is comparing. Kind of an apples to oranges comparison!
I have much more problems with mono wrapping around the rod tip due to line memory. Once you get used to using braid you will never go back to using mono for anything. I have 2 poles that I use slip bobbers on that have mono simply because the knot used to stop slip bobbers won't slide on braided, and once you do get it to slide up or down the line, it won't stay still.
As far as the braided line, I use Power pro pretty much exclusively. Mostly because it is made in Grand Junction Colorado which is close to where I live. I had heard that they were bought out by a bigger line manufacturer recently, but the product has remained the same.
As for the wind knots, the biggest cause of them is having your last loop of line wrap half way across the top of your spool from your last cast. When you try and make another cast that is further than the previous one that left the loop half over the top of the spool it will tie a half hitch in the line some of the time, especially if you really try and heave it a long way. Some times it will bring several loops out all together which looks horrible to untangle and sometimes is. The only way to prevent this is to look at the spool every time whether flipping the bail by hand or by cranking it over. If you see the line half way over the top which will happen occasionally, fix it immediately before reeling in. Another common cause for wind knots is throwing the bait into something that causes the bait to stop suddenly before you expect it to, like hitting a wall with the bait. Trying to make really long cast like to striper boils is another common cause especially into the wind. Any windy situation seems to multiply the chances for these problems as well. Too much line on the spool causes wind knots and other tangling issues as well. Leave an empty 1/8 of an inch of spool exposed to eliminate problems. Kids cause wind knots, they just do. Tell them once they get old enough how to prevent it, then let them get their own knots out a time or two. This will help there attention to detail. The last thing that I have noticed causing wind knot problems, and I know this will sound silly, is the cheaper the real is, the more problems you will have, including these knots.
We have 13 poles with power pro on them. Boil - striper bottom jigging - trolling - bottom bouncing - rods have a 6/20 braid followed by 8 to 10' of either 10 or 12 pound Seaguar or P-Line Flourocarbon leader on the bottom bouncing rigs I tie the braided line right to the swivel; tube jig - flip tail jigs - smaller crank baits - other small mouth rigs - rods have 4/15 power pro followed by 8 to 10" of either 8 or 10 pound Seaguar or P-Line Flourocarbon leader: On our 2 crappie rods we have 2/10 power pro followed by a 6 pound Flourocarbon Leader. Smaller line really helps on the crappie bite, even up north were the water is murkier.
If there is a reason to use anything bigger than 6/20 power pro, I have not seen it. I have broken 2 poles that had braided line on them, One on a hookset, the other was hung up in bad wind and I was just trying to break off the line. You can pull skiers with the stuff, and if you ever do get hung on the bottom it is really tough to break off. As far as tying on longer leaders, I find that about a third of the time the line will break on the mono leader just at the knot where the 2 lines where married, so I usually tie on 8 to 10 feet. I retie on a new leader if it gets less than 4'.
I use a double uni knot to join the two lines, because this is the one I can remember to tie. Check the last foot of your leader often as the fluorocarbon is bad about fraying causing weak spots. One of the reasons I like tube jig fishing is it forces you to retie often. I have got to where I have to keep reading glasses in the boat just to tie knots and thread hooks with. If you buy Power pro line, They will have a little brochure in along with the box of line that shows their products along with several knots that you can use for various needs. I normally put 100 to 110 yards of braided line on a reel. The tough thing is figuring out how much backing line to put on first to get the right amount of line on the reel leaving the important 1/8" of spool showing for maximum performance. Remember that Power pro is rated in size then strength. so 6/20 means 6 pound diameter or size, and 20 pound breaking strength. So if you reel says that it will hold 200 yards of 6 pound line. I put on 90 yards of backing and 100 to 110 yards of braided line. I measure this by walking off or actually measuring the distance either out in the street or along the docks. You will find that with the right bait like a 3/4 ounce kastmaster, that you can cast off that 100 yards of braided line. Really nice in the boils being able to cast that far. The stuff is really durable as well. I have actually taken the power pro off and reversed it front to back on the reel because the used end was getting a little worn looking.
As for casting I start reeling just before the bait hits the water, while looking quickly at the reel for any problems. One of the reels I have is not good about flipping the bail with the crank, for that reel I stop the line/bait with my index finger on my casting hand just before the bait hits the water, then shut the bail by hand. I know all the reel manufactures tell you to set the bail by hand, probably so the reel will last longer. I don't, just don't like to unless I have to.
There is a learning curve to using Braided line as well. You will catch more fish using it. The sensitivity is amazing, you can feel them breath on the bait. This is really nice for using tube jigs as sometimes they will pick it up and come to you. All you will feel is the absence of the weight of your bait. Simply lift up slack to you feel resistance/weight and set the hook gently. If you miss him, set it back down and give him a minute. You don't need near the hook set as you do with mono. As a guy that spent a lot of time fishing with plastic worm and Texas rigs with Mono where you needed to turn them inside out to catch them. This was hard for me to get use to.
Hope this helps. I look forward to meeting you guys one day as we fish the same waters/areas.
As far as the braided line, I use Power pro pretty much exclusively. Mostly because it is made in Grand Junction Colorado which is close to where I live. I had heard that they were bought out by a bigger line manufacturer recently, but the product has remained the same.
As for the wind knots, the biggest cause of them is having your last loop of line wrap half way across the top of your spool from your last cast. When you try and make another cast that is further than the previous one that left the loop half over the top of the spool it will tie a half hitch in the line some of the time, especially if you really try and heave it a long way. Some times it will bring several loops out all together which looks horrible to untangle and sometimes is. The only way to prevent this is to look at the spool every time whether flipping the bail by hand or by cranking it over. If you see the line half way over the top which will happen occasionally, fix it immediately before reeling in. Another common cause for wind knots is throwing the bait into something that causes the bait to stop suddenly before you expect it to, like hitting a wall with the bait. Trying to make really long cast like to striper boils is another common cause especially into the wind. Any windy situation seems to multiply the chances for these problems as well. Too much line on the spool causes wind knots and other tangling issues as well. Leave an empty 1/8 of an inch of spool exposed to eliminate problems. Kids cause wind knots, they just do. Tell them once they get old enough how to prevent it, then let them get their own knots out a time or two. This will help there attention to detail. The last thing that I have noticed causing wind knot problems, and I know this will sound silly, is the cheaper the real is, the more problems you will have, including these knots.
We have 13 poles with power pro on them. Boil - striper bottom jigging - trolling - bottom bouncing - rods have a 6/20 braid followed by 8 to 10' of either 10 or 12 pound Seaguar or P-Line Flourocarbon leader on the bottom bouncing rigs I tie the braided line right to the swivel; tube jig - flip tail jigs - smaller crank baits - other small mouth rigs - rods have 4/15 power pro followed by 8 to 10" of either 8 or 10 pound Seaguar or P-Line Flourocarbon leader: On our 2 crappie rods we have 2/10 power pro followed by a 6 pound Flourocarbon Leader. Smaller line really helps on the crappie bite, even up north were the water is murkier.
If there is a reason to use anything bigger than 6/20 power pro, I have not seen it. I have broken 2 poles that had braided line on them, One on a hookset, the other was hung up in bad wind and I was just trying to break off the line. You can pull skiers with the stuff, and if you ever do get hung on the bottom it is really tough to break off. As far as tying on longer leaders, I find that about a third of the time the line will break on the mono leader just at the knot where the 2 lines where married, so I usually tie on 8 to 10 feet. I retie on a new leader if it gets less than 4'.
I use a double uni knot to join the two lines, because this is the one I can remember to tie. Check the last foot of your leader often as the fluorocarbon is bad about fraying causing weak spots. One of the reasons I like tube jig fishing is it forces you to retie often. I have got to where I have to keep reading glasses in the boat just to tie knots and thread hooks with. If you buy Power pro line, They will have a little brochure in along with the box of line that shows their products along with several knots that you can use for various needs. I normally put 100 to 110 yards of braided line on a reel. The tough thing is figuring out how much backing line to put on first to get the right amount of line on the reel leaving the important 1/8" of spool showing for maximum performance. Remember that Power pro is rated in size then strength. so 6/20 means 6 pound diameter or size, and 20 pound breaking strength. So if you reel says that it will hold 200 yards of 6 pound line. I put on 90 yards of backing and 100 to 110 yards of braided line. I measure this by walking off or actually measuring the distance either out in the street or along the docks. You will find that with the right bait like a 3/4 ounce kastmaster, that you can cast off that 100 yards of braided line. Really nice in the boils being able to cast that far. The stuff is really durable as well. I have actually taken the power pro off and reversed it front to back on the reel because the used end was getting a little worn looking.
As for casting I start reeling just before the bait hits the water, while looking quickly at the reel for any problems. One of the reels I have is not good about flipping the bail with the crank, for that reel I stop the line/bait with my index finger on my casting hand just before the bait hits the water, then shut the bail by hand. I know all the reel manufactures tell you to set the bail by hand, probably so the reel will last longer. I don't, just don't like to unless I have to.
There is a learning curve to using Braided line as well. You will catch more fish using it. The sensitivity is amazing, you can feel them breath on the bait. This is really nice for using tube jigs as sometimes they will pick it up and come to you. All you will feel is the absence of the weight of your bait. Simply lift up slack to you feel resistance/weight and set the hook gently. If you miss him, set it back down and give him a minute. You don't need near the hook set as you do with mono. As a guy that spent a lot of time fishing with plastic worm and Texas rigs with Mono where you needed to turn them inside out to catch them. This was hard for me to get use to.
Hope this helps. I look forward to meeting you guys one day as we fish the same waters/areas.
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Dungee
Keeper of San Juan Secrets
Again this site is invaluable! Thank you all! I’ve adjusted a few things, refined and done well with my leader knot (modified Albright),and taken a bit off the spool, I’ve kept practicing in my street. Did get another wind knot, but I was throwing some light stuff simulating a lure, and I was whipping it hard. Finally found my actual practice knob for casting and that’s been better. I still have the power pro 15lb test. Question about casting. Is it better to not whip it if possible? Does lofting or taking a bit off help? It has seemed that way.
Also, I think my plan going forward is to use either 15 or 20lb power pro on my two spinning reels for grubs, shakey heads, smaller cranks, tubes etc, then 50lb on my two casting for jigs, chatter, spinner, topwater, bigger cranks etc. 8lb leaders on spinning and 12lb on casting. I’ve used power pro and still do for topwater on a casting reel now, never any issues on casting gear. Any thoughts on those set ups? Sounds like that would be similar to what I’m hearing suggested minus straight flouro on some casting reels.
Also, I think my plan going forward is to use either 15 or 20lb power pro on my two spinning reels for grubs, shakey heads, smaller cranks, tubes etc, then 50lb on my two casting for jigs, chatter, spinner, topwater, bigger cranks etc. 8lb leaders on spinning and 12lb on casting. I’ve used power pro and still do for topwater on a casting reel now, never any issues on casting gear. Any thoughts on those set ups? Sounds like that would be similar to what I’m hearing suggested minus straight flouro on some casting reels.
I think whipping is more likely to cause tangling problems than lofting. What we really need to do is go fishing together and get real life experience to help understand the finer points of casting.
Not Yet You Bet
Well-Known Member
I have been using the modified albright knot, but been looking and thinking about trying the FG knot.
Has anyone out there tried the FG knot with good success? Looks a little harder to tie, but not that much probably once you have learned how.
I like to tie on a fairly long florocarbon leader and then use it until it gets down to where I need to retie. I use 15 to 40 lb braid with 6 to 15 lb fluorocarbon leader. Don't know how the FG knot will work with the lighter leader. Everything I see about it is using large leader.
Looks like the FG is a great knot to cast through the rod guides, and a top of the line strength knot, but not sure how it will work for Lake Powell fishing applications.
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Not Yet You Bet
Well-Known Member
More information on the FG knot.
The ALBRIGHT vs The ALBERTO vs The FG Knot [Strength Test]
https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/albright-vs-alberto-vs-fg-knot/
How to tie the FG knot
you tube
LOCKED FG KNOT | HOW TO TIE THE STRONGEST BRAID TO FLUOROCARBON LEADER KNOT
The ALBRIGHT vs The ALBERTO vs The FG Knot [Strength Test]
https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/albright-vs-alberto-vs-fg-knot/
How to tie the FG knot
you tube
LOCKED FG KNOT | HOW TO TIE THE STRONGEST BRAID TO FLUOROCARBON LEADER KNOT
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SLAYERFISH
Active Member
I use Suffix 832 usually 6lb and 10 lb. I use a 12lb floro leader tied to a small barrel swivel. My leader is maybe 16" long. The barrel swivel prevents twisting and is easy to tie to. I huck metal and tubes ripping and twitching all day long and rarely get knots. This works for me. and many of the good sticks I fish with.
I cannot fathom 12 ft long leaders. SMH-
I cannot fathom 12 ft long leaders. SMH-
I am going to have to try these different knots. I break off at times where the fluorocarbon meets the braid. Was wondering if it was how I tied it - the fluorocarbon was weak or got hot pulling the knot - or maybe it was just the type of knot. Never breaks on a fish, just when I get hung on the bottom and trying to pull it loose. I have used the Uni - Uni knot cause I can remember how to and there is a diagram on knots in the packaging with the power pro line to remind me how to tie it. We hang up a lot pulling tube jigs along the bottom and trolling. Seemed to loose a lot more lures this year than years past. I was wondering if it maybe the mussels cutting the line? Anybody else notice this?
boil fever
Member
I Still use the Seaguar Knot. I highly recommend it because it is strong and easy and quick to tie!
I have lost lures when trolling due to mussels cutting the line but it is not when snagged and pulling on the lure. Knots can break where the fluorocarbon and braid are tied together when lots of pressure is applied. Mussel clusters tend to cut the knot just like a sharp knife when the lure ticks the bottom. When this happens you must troll in an bit deeper water or adjust by using a shallower running lure. Check your line often to see if there are nicks after the lure hits bottom.
Dungee
Keeper of San Juan Secrets
I couldn't tell one thing that hat and mustache FG video guy was demonstrating. The knot seems very time consuming, even in perfect conditions in peoples living rooms it looks like its about five minutes, cant imagine trying to tie it with a rocking boat and Powell wind. The albright is simple and very strong, maybe not the strongest but very practical.
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