Steel Pontoon Rust....

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Just an update if anyone is interested. This houseboat that was scrapped was a 12' x 37' Boatel and the total scrap price of the recyclable metals (steel, aluminum & copper) on these actually equaled less than $300 total. I will still keep doing the scrapping though but re-sellable parts are a huge plus and the man hours to do the tear down is much higher than scrap metal price.

Bottom line, these boats are worth a lot more in one piece than they are torn down.
 
what k
Hey all Worders!
I have had several people ask in the past 2 years about lifespan of these steel pontoons on these older houseboats. What I have told most is that routine maintenance is an absolute must, but yes, being steel and in the water, yes there probably is a definite lifespan on the pontoons.

The current boat I an scrapping out is a 1977 Boatel 39'er. Rotten floor and walls, was taking on water and owners did just walk away from it after they removed what they wanted. Long story short, here is what I found inside this 43 year old boat's pontoons. Keep in mind that these pontoons had the "preventative oil" in the toons.

First pontoon (Port) has about 2" of ice in the bottom and as you can see, the inside is almost completely coated in rust. But keep in mind, the rust is not cratered at all. For the most part, it's mainly surface rust. Still should be concerning if your inner toons look like this but definitely not enough to be immediately concerned with. If this toon was dried out, welded properly, pressure tested and sealed up, I would see many more years from this toon before any real dramatic problems would happen. But the key words there are drying out and proper welding.

The second (Starboard) pontoon is nearly spotless inside the pontoon. It would be a safe bet this toon has never seen water in it over the last 43 years. There is some rust on the upper right side but the brown on the bottom is the "preventative oil". There is no rust on the bottom of the pontoon.

But please don't go to any of the businesses near the lake and use these pictures as a reference to their repairs and what can be done. I have seen pontoons that are rusted thru from the inside and you can poke a ball point pen thru the steel.

After I have seen this on a 43 year old boat, it really kind of changes the perspective regarding these old rental boats. If someone is looking at a boat for sale, find someone with a bore scope and look inside the pontoons. I am going to do it with the boat I have up for sale. Even if the inside looks like the Port toon, I would feel confident the boat would see many more years of enjoyment.

As far as the "preventative oil" I do not know what kind of oil it is. It is not self burning, but will burn with flame on it (flame resistant). It is pretty thick in cold weather and coming out of the toons, was a pretty dark brown. Would it be recommended to add it to the steel toons? That would have to be your personal choice after doing your own research. But, take into effect that with oil in the toons, some companies may refuse to weld/repair due to fire risk. The choice is completely up to the boat owners.

If I come across a pontoon that shows what to avoid when you look inside, I will post it. Don't give up on all these steel pontoons. Know what to look for. ;)

Happy Boating everyone!


View attachment 6780View attachment 6781
Hey all Worders!
I have had several people ask in the past 2 years about lifespan of these steel pontoons on these older houseboats. What I have told most is that routine maintenance is an absolute must, but yes, being steel and in the water, yes there probably is a definite lifespan on the pontoons.

The current boat I an scrapping out is a 1977 Boatel 39'er. Rotten floor and walls, was taking on water and owners did just walk away from it after they removed what they wanted. Long story short, here is what I found inside this 43 year old boat's pontoons. Keep in mind that these pontoons had the "preventative oil" in the toons.

First pontoon (Port) has about 2" of ice in the bottom and as you can see, the inside is almost completely coated in rust. But keep in mind, the rust is not cratered at all. For the most part, it's mainly surface rust. Still should be concerning if your inner toons look like this but definitely not enough to be immediately concerned with. If this toon was dried out, welded properly, pressure tested and sealed up, I would see many more years from this toon before any real dramatic problems would happen. But the key words there are drying out and proper welding.

The second (Starboard) pontoon is nearly spotless inside the pontoon. It would be a safe bet this toon has never seen water in it over the last 43 years. There is some rust on the upper right side but the brown on the bottom is the "preventative oil". There is no rust on the bottom of the pontoon.

But please don't go to any of the businesses near the lake and use these pictures as a reference to their repairs and what can be done. I have seen pontoons that are rusted thru from the inside and you can poke a ball point pen thru the steel.

After I have seen this on a 43 year old boat, it really kind of changes the perspective regarding these old rental boats. If someone is looking at a boat for sale, find someone with a bore scope and look inside the pontoons. I am going to do it with the boat I have up for sale. Even if the inside looks like the Port toon, I would feel confident the boat would see many more years of enjoyment.

As far as the "preventative oil" I do not know what kind of oil it is. It is not self burning, but will burn with flame on it (flame resistant). It is pretty thick in cold weather and coming out of the toons, was a pretty dark brown. Would it be recommended to add it to the steel toons? That would have to be your personal choice after doing your own research. But, take into effect that with oil in the toons, some companies may refuse to weld/repair due to fire risk. The choice is completely up to the boat owners.

If I come across a pontoon that shows what to avoid when you look inside, I will post it. Don't give up on all these steel pontoons. Know what to look for. ;)

Happy Boating everyone!


View attachment 6780View attachment 6781
What kind of bore scope can access the pontoon?
 
What kind of bore scope can access the pontoon?
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Any kind that will fit into a 1" hole minimum and a good light source on the head to help see in the dark. Mine is a bit small for the job but there are ones out there that would do a great job if the money was spent on one.

On the other side of the spectrum. A borescope without a tip light may reveal holes from the inside because the sunlight would shine thru he darkness.

But, if you were going to be welding the pontoons anyways, you could drill the holes in several locations for the borescope to look at the entire inside of the pontoon. My borescope will fit into a 3/8" hole, just as an example
 
Ryobi inspection lighted LED camera that works with my iphone 6 was too weak to reveal much of the inside of the pontoon. It does eat batteries - 3 AA. But a low tech solution of water detecting paste on a weighted string gave us the info that our pontoons are free of water at least for now. But it did work at Wahweap dock so that was interesting. I'll keep it for looking for dust under the couch.
 
Bobberll, maybe you WOULD be better off with no light and use the sunlight, if there are suspicious areas and traces of water. I could take on water in use that is above the normal waterline, that doesn't show, but a magnet will tell if there is steel left or not.
 
Maybe a dumb question but-
With the hull value so low if it would last 5 years for what it costs would that be worth some small investment?
Why not just sand blast the outside and spray a heavy coat or 2 of Rinolinning on it to seal the outside from water intrusion then-
Cut access holes front and rear on both toons and drop in a good self-contained bilge pump in each corner wired hot to the batteries. Also tie in a flashing strobe light and a loud siren if the bilge pumps start running. Wake up the dead if water comes in.
Maybe 1000 watts of solar panels on top to keep the batteries charged while on the hook.

A good survey on the outside to find weak areas before Rino but after sand blast would get ahead of the game.
Keep a constant inspection process each year and maybe a respray on the wear areas that the beach rubs off.
Can't see why this wouldn't give 5 years life. Maybe a cheap boat for 5 years.

Boroscopes usually have a very limited view range (they have to get close to the surface to view in focus) Use them a lot in aviation. Usually have to get within an inch or so of the surface to see anything. Pretty tedious on a big hull. Why not just tap the hull from the outside to find weak spots? If no large weak spots then maybe the Rino lining would do the job. Maybe just a patch welded over any large weak spot and then Rino lining. JTOL
 
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