JIgging Mono line

[KYKevin]

I do a lot of jigging, trout, crappie, etc. What line do you jigger's like, that dont kink as bad as other's? I had a roll from Cabela's, that was great, but I can't find out who made it, and they dont sale it anymore, this line was Hi vis yellow, and last a lot longer then trilene or stren.
Thank's

 

[Edward Gerdemann]

I use fluorocarbon as a jigging line mainly because Lake Powell is clear and the fish can't see fluorocarbon. The other factor is line stretch. Fluorocarbon has a lot less stretch than traditional monofilament. This is important for both sensitivity and for getting quick and solid hook sets. Unfortunately fluorocarbon is a lot stiffer than mono which means it will backlash more easily, and it will develop line twists more easily as well. I've found that when jigging it will get wrapped around the rod tip more than traditional mono or braid. While these are annoyances, I consider them a small price to pay for a low-stretch invisible line.

Ed Gerdemann

 

[KYKevin]

Thanks Ed

 

[jt465]

Suffix 6 pound test with 20 feet - or so - of 8-pound flourocarbon leader - improved Allbright knot -

 

[Eric bird]

Seaguar fluorocarbon red label 8 lb

 

[Mildog]

Try Sunline Sniper FC 6lb and 7LB are my favorites to use on spinning reels, I don't like to use anything heavier than 8LB on Spinning, on bait-cast reels the heavier tests are fine. I use it for leader as well when using braid. Don't overfill reels and if you ever get twists in your line on Fluoro or mono let a bunch (more than your longest casts) out behind the boat with nothing attached troll it stretched out behind the boat for a bit then reel back in under good tension, this will eliminate a bunch of twists and it will perform much better. I will do this sometimes a couple times a trip. it makes a difference in the handling for sure. A good tug or two when you are on a snag or paying out some line and have someone hold the other end while you you give it a bit of a stretch will also help remove some memory in the Mono or Fluoro as well.
Often just casting jigs and grubs you will get a fair amount of twists from the lures spinning around during casts and of course reeling fish in when your drag is loose and spinning upon retrieve is a major culprit of line twist. I am amazed how often I see people reeling in fish and all they are doing is spinning the drag and not bringing the fish in. If you are reeling in fast and cranking like crazy and the fish isn't getting any closer, all you are doing is twisting your line. LOL
Mildog Out

 

[wayne gustaveson]

Try Sunline Sniper FC 6lb and 7LB are my favorites to use on spinning reels, I don't like to use anything heavier than 8LB on Spinning, on bait-cast reels the heavier tests are fine. I use it for leader as well when using braid. Don't overfill reels and if you ever get twists in your line on Fluoro or mono let a bunch (more than your longest casts) out behind the boat with nothing attached troll it stretched out behind the boat for a bit then reel back in under good tension, this will eliminate a bunch of twists and it will perform much better. I will do this sometimes a couple times a trip. it makes a difference in the handling for sure. A good tug or two when you are on a snag or paying out some line and have someone hold the other end while you you give it a bit of a stretch will also help remove some memory in the Mono or Fluoro as well.
Often just casting jigs and grubs you will get a fair amount of twists from the lures spinning around during casts and of course reeling fish in when your drag is loose and spinning upon retrieve is a major culprit of line twist. I am amazed how often I see people reeling in fish and all they are doing is spinning the drag and not bringing the fish in. If you are reeling in fast and cranking like crazy and the fish isn't getting any closer, all you are doing is twisting your line. LOL
Mildog Out

Great advice. I try to never the let the drag work while playing a fish. I give the fish travel room by lowering the rod tip and not reeling until the fish comes in when raising the rod tip. If the fish decides to run then the drag works. When he stops I bring him back under control and reel when the fish allows me to do it.

 

[Mildog]

Wayne that's right and spot on. It's really pretty simple if you think about it. Anglers should use the ROD to fight and bring fish in, the reel should only bring in the line, not Wench in the fish. The rod should not be static and then try to just crank in the fish. That's when the drag will slip and line twist occurs, every time you turn the handle on a spinning reel if the drag slips you are putting in 5 to 7 twists depending on the retrieve ratio. That can be a lot of line twist in a day a lot of fish are being caught. Often line twist is operator error, not a problem with the line. On bait-cast reels that is not the case you can have the drag slip when retrieving, but the line will not be twisted, an advantage to a bait-cast reel for certain applications..