Clean and Shine a SS prop

All the above suggestions will work. Also, a white vinegar soak before scrubbing can be an alternative. My bravo 3 props were so frosted that I had to use fine grit wet and dry sandpaper. Start with 400 and progress up to as high as 2000. Keep the sandpaper and prop wet during this process. Then use a marine polish and finish with wax. It's a lot of work but your prop will shine. Note: this worked for my bravo 3 counter rotating prop set which was not supper shinny when new. If yours is one of those "mirror finish" props, maybe avoid the abrasives or start with the 2000 grit if all else fails.
 
I went on Utube and several suggested Muriatic Acid. I know it's harsh stuff but I've used it quite a bit in the past so I was comfortable using it. I got it all clean and shiny in less that an hour with Muriatic then rinsed it well. I'd guess being more regular and use white vinegar would be better than the once in a while deep clean. Thanks for the suggestions, Chuck
 
Terry said:
All the above suggestions will work. Also, a white vinegar soak before scrubbing can be an alternative. My bravo 3 props were so frosted that I had to use fine grit wet and dry sandpaper. Start with 400 and progress up to as high as 2000. Keep the sandpaper and prop wet during this process. Then use a marine polish and finish with wax. It's a lot of work but your prop will shine. Note: this worked for my bravo 3 counter rotating prop set which was not supper shinny when new. If yours is one of those "mirror finish" props, maybe avoid the abrasives or start with the 2000 grit if all else fails.
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When we bought our Searay the Bravo 3s were in terrible condition. Fully oxidized, and with the cutting edges pretty chewed up(the previous owner hit a rock while taking is on a test drive and didn’t even notice) I wet sanded with a random orbital and cleaned up the edges with a grinder and flap disk, had to take about a 1/8” off. Did my very best to make it even on all three blades of each prop. Made a huge difference, cavitated much less in corners. Swapped to a 4x4 set which is even better. With the fresh 4x4 set you can see that the oxidation forms where the low pressure areas are on the back side of the prop.
 
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