Tiff Mapel
Escalante-Class Member
Hello Wordlings,
Sorry I'm a bit late in posting, but here's your Wednesday escape. Off to Moki Canyon!
Tiff
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Moki Canyon is located just north of Halls Crossing, right around buoy #99. If you’re looking for a nice canyon to hike this fall or winter, look no further. Since it is so close to both Bullfrog and Halls Crossing, you won’t expend much gas to get there. The mouth of Moki Canyon is on your right as you head up north from Halls—it’s right after a huge, straight wall that many old timers call “Moki Wall.” Rumor has it that a lot of big fish can be caught in the deep water there.
Just as Moki Canyon is popular with boaters today, it was equally as popular in its history too. Long before Lake Powell, an early civilization known as the Basketmakers left their remains in the canyon. This civilization dates back to 500 A.D. Then from the 1100 to 1200’s, the culture known as the Anasazi, or Ancestral Puebloans, thrived all over the Colorado Plateau. Their remains are seen today as the variety of ruins that are scattered throughout the canyons. The ruins in Moki are primarily granaries, or small storage facilities used mainly for food. Moki Canyon must have been one of the most desirable places to live in the area, as over 100 sites were discovered and cataloged before the coming of Lake Powell. The canyon likely saw heavy usage, as crops were grown on the wide canyon floor of alluvial soil. A year-round running stream also came in handy for a steady water supply. And with the proximity to the main stem Colorado River, water was never a shortage. Combine this with the high Navajo Sandstone walls, and living here would have offered considerable protection from enemies and foul weather.
Around 1250 A.D., the Anasazi slowly began to disappear from the Colorado Plateau. Was it drought or warfare? No one will ever truly know. Later, the Navajo, Utes, and Piutes would move into the canyons. In the 1800’s the prospectors and cattle operations moved into the canyon country. There were many gold miners in Glen Canyon, and indeed they found gold—just not enough of it to ever make any of them wealthy enough to retire. By 1880, cattle ranches were king. Herds of cattle roamed freely, advancing the erosion, trampling the vegetation, and even some ruins. For Moki Canyon, access came from the rim at the head of each inlet, and led down the massive sand slides into the main canyon. You can still find the old cattle trails up on the Kayenta ledges in Moki Canyon today. In the early 1900’s, archaeologists probed the canyon’s ruins, only to find that many of them had already been looted for their artifacts. The National Geographic Society led an expedition back in 1923, giving the world a glimpse of what the desert canyons held. By the 1930’s and 40’s, recreational river running had begun to develop throughout Glen Canyon. Moki Canyon was one of the most frequented canyons. River runners would park their boats at the mouth of the canyon, and walk the few miles up to see the ruins. Before Glen Canyon Dam, the University of Utah’s Department of Anthropology made a thorough documentation of the ruins and artifacts before the waters of Lake Powell enveloped them.
Nowadays, access to Moki Canyon is easy from either Bullfrog or Halls Crossing Marinas. Because of this proximity, Moki is a popular boating destination. Some of the best campsites are at the big sandy beaches at the end of each main branch of Moki, where the water ends at full-pool. Moki has many smaller branches off the main canyon that are worthy of exploration. As you boat in the main branch, look to the left into some of the inlets. Just after the first left branch, there are some ruins and petroglyphs in a small alcove, according to Stan Jones’s map. Further beyond that inlet, you’ll notice some water caves that you can take a boat in, depending on the water level. When you make it back to the “confluence” where the two main branches merge, you’ll notice a huge, triangular-shaped Navajo Sandstone wall separating the branches. To the left is called North Gulch, and to the right is the main branch of Moki.
For the sake of this article, we did not hike into North Gulch—we hiked in the main branch of Moki, as that is where the ruins are. On Stan Jones’s map, North Gulch appears to have one set of ruins, but they are very far up the canyon. It also has a year-round running stream, a few springs, and some beaver ponds.
In the main branch of Moki, we beached the boats where the water ended at an elevation of 3630 at the end of June. Moki also has a year-round running stream, and a nice sandy streambed that’s about ankle deep in some places. The stream is warm, and full of tadpoles, water beetles, and dragonfly nymphs. There were no crayfish observed. Generally, where we see crayfish, we’ll see no other creatures. The invasive, predatory crayfish will quickly decimate all other stream creatures whenever they are present. So it was nice to find another canyon at Lake Powell that wasn’t taken over by crayfish. The stream also goes underground in some places. There were large stretches where there was no water, only later to find large pools and a flowing stream further up.
In the sand by the stream, we observed many animal tracks. Some cloven hoof prints were either deer or desert bighorn sheep—we couldn’t be sure. There were also some tracks that were either beaver or muskrat. Small toads no bigger than your thumbnail hopped out of our way as we went upstream. Lizards scampered among the rocks. Cottonwoods and willows grow in abundance along the stream, along with the ever-present tamarisk. It makes for a pleasant olfactory experience as you hike up, so pause and smell the desert-scented air as you take in the sounds of trickling water and singing canyon wrens. It truly feels like you’re out in the middle of nowhere, and you’re the only people around.
We started our hike early in the morning. This way, the sun isn’t over the canyon walls yet, and the first part of the hike will be in the shade. Around the corner from where the boats are beached as you head up-canyon, there will be a big sweeping turn to the right. Look up at the north wall, and you’ll see the first set of ruins tucked into the alcove. They looked too steep to reach, so we did not get a close up view of these ruins. According to Stan Jones’s map, there are petroglyphs at these ruins. As you continue to hike up-canyon, you’ll notice the first sand slide to the right. You can hike to the top of it, and eventually reach the rim of the canyon. However, keep in mind that while hiking in sand is fun, it is also hard work. For every two steps forward, you’ll be taking one step back as you slide back down. So it’s not recommended that you hike the sand slides in the middle of the summer—the sand heats up quickly.
Just beyond the first sand slide, you’ll notice a sloping wall to the left where you can access the upper Kayenta bench. There are old cattle trails that lead along the base of the Navajo Sandstone walls and continue up-canyon. On this trail, it’s very different than hiking in the streambed. It’s a lot warmer on the Kayenta bench away from the stream. There are numerous cacti to negotiate, and other desert plants like sage and Mormon Tea. Don’t get too close to the edge of the giant sand walls that line each side of the canyon where it drops to the streambed below. There are several fissures in the sand, and from the looks of it, school bus-sized chunks of it regularly fall down. There are a few upper alcoves on the Kayenta bench where seeps were observed and maidenhair ferns growing in abundance. Cacti were close by—an interesting contrast in an ecosystem.
After the first set of ruins high in the alcove at the beginning of the hike, you’ll come to the next set about a half a mile to a mile further up-canyon. These granaries are more intact, and you can clearly see the uniquely shaped door. The trail goes right to the ruins, so stay on the upper Kayenta bench heading east. Beyond those ruins, in about another half-mile or so, lies the final set of ruins. All of the ruins are in alcoves, and on the north side of the canyon facing south. This was likely done to protect them from the elements, like rain dripping from the rim of the canyon. Also, south facing would mean sun in the winter, and shade during the summer.
Plan a few hours to explore Moki Canyon, and be sure to bring plenty of water. Wear some amphibious shoes that will go well in water and have good traction. If you start early enough in the shade, you’ll be able to see all three sets of ruins. Plus, you’ll be treated to a spectacular canyon full of beauty, solitude, and surprises. Take the time to just sit and observe. Take plenty of pictures. Listen to the sounds, smell the smells. It’s no wonder the Ancient Ones chose this place to call home.
Sorry I'm a bit late in posting, but here's your Wednesday escape. Off to Moki Canyon!
Tiff
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
Moki Canyon
Moki Canyon is located just north of Halls Crossing, right around buoy #99. If you’re looking for a nice canyon to hike this fall or winter, look no further. Since it is so close to both Bullfrog and Halls Crossing, you won’t expend much gas to get there. The mouth of Moki Canyon is on your right as you head up north from Halls—it’s right after a huge, straight wall that many old timers call “Moki Wall.” Rumor has it that a lot of big fish can be caught in the deep water there.
Just as Moki Canyon is popular with boaters today, it was equally as popular in its history too. Long before Lake Powell, an early civilization known as the Basketmakers left their remains in the canyon. This civilization dates back to 500 A.D. Then from the 1100 to 1200’s, the culture known as the Anasazi, or Ancestral Puebloans, thrived all over the Colorado Plateau. Their remains are seen today as the variety of ruins that are scattered throughout the canyons. The ruins in Moki are primarily granaries, or small storage facilities used mainly for food. Moki Canyon must have been one of the most desirable places to live in the area, as over 100 sites were discovered and cataloged before the coming of Lake Powell. The canyon likely saw heavy usage, as crops were grown on the wide canyon floor of alluvial soil. A year-round running stream also came in handy for a steady water supply. And with the proximity to the main stem Colorado River, water was never a shortage. Combine this with the high Navajo Sandstone walls, and living here would have offered considerable protection from enemies and foul weather.
Around 1250 A.D., the Anasazi slowly began to disappear from the Colorado Plateau. Was it drought or warfare? No one will ever truly know. Later, the Navajo, Utes, and Piutes would move into the canyons. In the 1800’s the prospectors and cattle operations moved into the canyon country. There were many gold miners in Glen Canyon, and indeed they found gold—just not enough of it to ever make any of them wealthy enough to retire. By 1880, cattle ranches were king. Herds of cattle roamed freely, advancing the erosion, trampling the vegetation, and even some ruins. For Moki Canyon, access came from the rim at the head of each inlet, and led down the massive sand slides into the main canyon. You can still find the old cattle trails up on the Kayenta ledges in Moki Canyon today. In the early 1900’s, archaeologists probed the canyon’s ruins, only to find that many of them had already been looted for their artifacts. The National Geographic Society led an expedition back in 1923, giving the world a glimpse of what the desert canyons held. By the 1930’s and 40’s, recreational river running had begun to develop throughout Glen Canyon. Moki Canyon was one of the most frequented canyons. River runners would park their boats at the mouth of the canyon, and walk the few miles up to see the ruins. Before Glen Canyon Dam, the University of Utah’s Department of Anthropology made a thorough documentation of the ruins and artifacts before the waters of Lake Powell enveloped them.
Nowadays, access to Moki Canyon is easy from either Bullfrog or Halls Crossing Marinas. Because of this proximity, Moki is a popular boating destination. Some of the best campsites are at the big sandy beaches at the end of each main branch of Moki, where the water ends at full-pool. Moki has many smaller branches off the main canyon that are worthy of exploration. As you boat in the main branch, look to the left into some of the inlets. Just after the first left branch, there are some ruins and petroglyphs in a small alcove, according to Stan Jones’s map. Further beyond that inlet, you’ll notice some water caves that you can take a boat in, depending on the water level. When you make it back to the “confluence” where the two main branches merge, you’ll notice a huge, triangular-shaped Navajo Sandstone wall separating the branches. To the left is called North Gulch, and to the right is the main branch of Moki.
For the sake of this article, we did not hike into North Gulch—we hiked in the main branch of Moki, as that is where the ruins are. On Stan Jones’s map, North Gulch appears to have one set of ruins, but they are very far up the canyon. It also has a year-round running stream, a few springs, and some beaver ponds.
In the main branch of Moki, we beached the boats where the water ended at an elevation of 3630 at the end of June. Moki also has a year-round running stream, and a nice sandy streambed that’s about ankle deep in some places. The stream is warm, and full of tadpoles, water beetles, and dragonfly nymphs. There were no crayfish observed. Generally, where we see crayfish, we’ll see no other creatures. The invasive, predatory crayfish will quickly decimate all other stream creatures whenever they are present. So it was nice to find another canyon at Lake Powell that wasn’t taken over by crayfish. The stream also goes underground in some places. There were large stretches where there was no water, only later to find large pools and a flowing stream further up.
In the sand by the stream, we observed many animal tracks. Some cloven hoof prints were either deer or desert bighorn sheep—we couldn’t be sure. There were also some tracks that were either beaver or muskrat. Small toads no bigger than your thumbnail hopped out of our way as we went upstream. Lizards scampered among the rocks. Cottonwoods and willows grow in abundance along the stream, along with the ever-present tamarisk. It makes for a pleasant olfactory experience as you hike up, so pause and smell the desert-scented air as you take in the sounds of trickling water and singing canyon wrens. It truly feels like you’re out in the middle of nowhere, and you’re the only people around.
We started our hike early in the morning. This way, the sun isn’t over the canyon walls yet, and the first part of the hike will be in the shade. Around the corner from where the boats are beached as you head up-canyon, there will be a big sweeping turn to the right. Look up at the north wall, and you’ll see the first set of ruins tucked into the alcove. They looked too steep to reach, so we did not get a close up view of these ruins. According to Stan Jones’s map, there are petroglyphs at these ruins. As you continue to hike up-canyon, you’ll notice the first sand slide to the right. You can hike to the top of it, and eventually reach the rim of the canyon. However, keep in mind that while hiking in sand is fun, it is also hard work. For every two steps forward, you’ll be taking one step back as you slide back down. So it’s not recommended that you hike the sand slides in the middle of the summer—the sand heats up quickly.
Just beyond the first sand slide, you’ll notice a sloping wall to the left where you can access the upper Kayenta bench. There are old cattle trails that lead along the base of the Navajo Sandstone walls and continue up-canyon. On this trail, it’s very different than hiking in the streambed. It’s a lot warmer on the Kayenta bench away from the stream. There are numerous cacti to negotiate, and other desert plants like sage and Mormon Tea. Don’t get too close to the edge of the giant sand walls that line each side of the canyon where it drops to the streambed below. There are several fissures in the sand, and from the looks of it, school bus-sized chunks of it regularly fall down. There are a few upper alcoves on the Kayenta bench where seeps were observed and maidenhair ferns growing in abundance. Cacti were close by—an interesting contrast in an ecosystem.
After the first set of ruins high in the alcove at the beginning of the hike, you’ll come to the next set about a half a mile to a mile further up-canyon. These granaries are more intact, and you can clearly see the uniquely shaped door. The trail goes right to the ruins, so stay on the upper Kayenta bench heading east. Beyond those ruins, in about another half-mile or so, lies the final set of ruins. All of the ruins are in alcoves, and on the north side of the canyon facing south. This was likely done to protect them from the elements, like rain dripping from the rim of the canyon. Also, south facing would mean sun in the winter, and shade during the summer.
Plan a few hours to explore Moki Canyon, and be sure to bring plenty of water. Wear some amphibious shoes that will go well in water and have good traction. If you start early enough in the shade, you’ll be able to see all three sets of ruins. Plus, you’ll be treated to a spectacular canyon full of beauty, solitude, and surprises. Take the time to just sit and observe. Take plenty of pictures. Listen to the sounds, smell the smells. It’s no wonder the Ancient Ones chose this place to call home.
