Llewellyn Gulch

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Tiff Mapel

Escalante-Class Member
Good morning, Wordlings!

Today's adventure goes to Llewellyn. Lovely canyon! I have not been back in a few years, so I don't know if those delicate arches are still standing....

Next week will be my last article, as I'm finally out of old Lake Powell Magazine articles. Next week, it'll be the SHAD RALLY! With lots of pics. Until then, enjoy this quiet, serene canyon.

Tiff

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Llewellyn Gulch
Hiked in June, 2005
Published in Fall/Winter 2005/2006 issue

Llewellyn Gulch is an often-overlooked gem of a canyon, poised near the middle of Lake Powell, and begging for adventure. It is located on the river-right side of the channel at Buoy 63, and between the Escalante and San Juan arms. On the solstice in June, five of us explored Llewellyn Gulch from water’s end. The lake elevation was approximately 3,601 feet that day.

In attendance were Sherae Gronbach of Amarillo, Texas; Shireen Symonds of Durango, Colorado; Dave Tate of Flagstaff, Arizona; and Frank and Tiffany Mapel of Durango, Colorado. This was a first-time visit for both Sherae and Shireen, and they both absolutely loved Lake Powell.

On any Lake Powell map, Llewellyn Gulch looks unassuming—a small canyon that doesn’t go very far. But don’t let that deceive you—Llewellyn Gulch is worthy of exploration. It is a long, wide canyon, over three miles in length, and it follows the southern edge of the Straight Cliffs of the Kaiparowits Plateau.

Llewellyn Gulch sports a year-round running stream in its depths, and has many sandy campsites when the lake level is up. Young cottonwood trees are growing near the stream and the invasive tamarisk and Ravenna grass can be found there too.

This canyon has it all—amazing scenery, running water, plant life, aquatic life, petroglyphs, ruins, trails, and narrows. Llewellyn Gulch was named for Llewellyn Harris, a Utah pioneer. Far into the canyon, under a rock ledge on the right side, a faint “L. Harris 1891” is inscribed in the sandstone. I’d like to go back and look for it, because we did not see it on our hike.

As we hiked from the water’s edge, we followed the trail to the right side of the canyon. It is well marked, and easy to follow. We knew we were looking for petroglyphs and an old cowboy camp along the wall, so we stayed close to the towering Navajo Sandstone cliffs.

Just above the high water mark, around a corner on the right is a small alcove with seeps and ferns growing from the wall. Also in this alcove is an interesting formation in the sandstone. Rising from the floor is a large fin of rock with two small arches in it. The arches look very delicate, so if you visit Llewellyn’s arches, please enjoy them and get some great pictures, but please don’t touch them.

The first panel of petroglyphs appears higher up, and beyond the arches. Walk up the rounded slick rock toward the high straight walls. You’ll see a corner where a drainage spout plunges from the rim into a triangular dark-water plunge pool. Look to the left of the pool, and you’ll see the petroglyphs at eye-level, faintly etched into the black desert varnish. There are some bighorn sheep, some vertical marks, and what appears to be a spirit figure.

According to another guidebook, there are two other petroglyph panels, about 300 meters up from this one. Maybe those petroglyphs were too faint or hidden, or further up than stated, because we did not come across any more petroglyphs. We surmised that the old cowboy camp was in the alcove near the arches—sheltered from the elements.

Farther up the canyon and on the right side again, we found a small storage box. It is well preserved with the mud mortar still intact. It’s debatable whether the Anasazis or the cowboys who used to run cattle in the canyon used this box. Perhaps that is where the cowboy camp was?

On the left side of the canyon, there’s an old rockfall near the high water mark. Just beyond this rockfall is a sandslide where an old cattle trail takes you up to the rim and out of the canyon. Beyond the rim, just to the north, you can access Hole-in-the-Rock Road.

As you go further up into Llewellyn Gulch, there are many more exits to the rim and cattle trails. The canyon gradually narrows into a spectacular slot canyon, which can be difficult to hike at times. This is where the stream first begins to flow. As the stream flows toward Lake Powell, there are many deep pools that offer cool wading to hot, tired hikers. The pools have dams formed from flood debris of sticks and grasses. There was no evidence of beavers, although they are present in some canyons at Lake Powell. The clear pools will have the occasional Bluegill fish, tadpoles, and crayfish.

One particular five-inch crayfish was curious enough that he walked over to investigate us, and came out of the water onto shore! Interestingly enough, crayfish are not native to Lake Powell. They are escaped fish bait that have established themselves in quiet side canyons. Since they are not native, they tend to disrupt native amphibian populations. So Lake Powell visitors are encouraged to catch as many crayfish as possible. Make it a contest, and then have a crayfish boil back at camp.

Our hike took almost three hours round-trip, and we explored maybe a third of the canyon. To do the whole canyon will likely take you all day. A good way to do the whole canyon would be to have someone drop you off at the Hole-in-the-Rock Road and hike down from the top. You’ll get into the narrows right away, but be ready: you may need some rope to get down over some chokestones, and make sure you go with two or more people.

Arrange for a boat, fully furnished with food and drinks, to pick you up at the water’s edge—a rewarding end to one of Lake Powell’s finest hikes, in the unassuming, yet spectacular Llewellyn Gulch.

Llewellyn arches and girls.jpgLlewellyn hike.jpg
 
I love all your stories Tiff! Thanks for posting them. My wife and I trapsed around Llewellyn several years ago looking for those little arches with no luck. We were winging it with vague directions and sketchy memory, but had a great time exploring. I am pretty sure this pic is where we turned around. IMG_0960 2.jpg
 
I love all your stories Tiff! Thanks for posting them. My wife and I trapsed around Llewellyn several years ago looking for those little arches with no luck. We were winging it with vague directions and sketchy memory, but had a great time exploring. I am pretty sure this pic is where we turned around. View attachment 16797
Great pic! That said, it sure looks like the pool and waterfall in Davis Gulch rather than one in Llewellyn... could be wrong, but in any case, it's a great spot!
 
Great report Tiff! Loved it. Llewellyn is also one of my favorite hikes too. And as you say, at high water it's a great place for multiple houseboat camps... at low water like now (or even up to about 3610 or so), you're lucky to find one or two marginal houseboat sites toward the entrance.

As for the "L. Harris 1891" inscription, I hadn't heard of that one, but there is a "L. Harris March 29, 1888" inscription up in that canyon somewhere...

Your experience was similar to mine... I previously posted my journal entries and a few photos describing trips in Llewellyn from 2000 and 2010 (lake level 3679 and 3637, respectively) at this link:

 
Great report Tiff! Loved it. Llewellyn is also one of my favorite hikes too. And as you say, at high water it's a great place for multiple houseboat camps... at low water like now (or even up to about 3610 or so), you're lucky to find one or two marginal houseboat sites toward the entrance.

As for the "L. Harris 1891" inscription, I hadn't heard of that one, but there is a "L. Harris March 29, 1888" inscription up in that canyon somewhere...

Your experience was similar to mine... I previously posted my journal entries and a few photos describing trips in Llewellyn from 2000 and 2010 (lake level 3679 and 3637, respectively) at this link:

Yes, thank you for pointing that out. When I wrote the article in 2005, I got the info from another source that the inscription said "L. Harris 1891." The correct one is "L. Harris March 29, 1888." And, we were never able to find it, so couldn't verify it either way. ;)

Tiff
 
Spent Many nights in Llewellen....great spot....but much to our disappointment, never found the arches......even at high water!!

at one point we said: Is Stan Jones kidding us?? :)

So thanks for the pics..... (y)
 
Llewellyn Gulch was our favorite canyon for camping during the high water years of the mid/late 90’s. High flying, never tiring turkey vultures soaring overhead, several one boat wide, shaded alcove mooring sites on the S wall and towering cascading waterfalls after downpours made the canyon our Lake Powell heaven. In those days I remember reading somewhere, a 90’s Stan Jones map maybe, that there was a big boulder on the bench on the N side, about in the area of the dogleg left as you entered the canyon, that had Wetherill’s name inscribed on it. I spent time during several trips hiking around to photograph it with no success. There was also a T shaped lateral blind, very private, canyon that opened on the N side. Water never encroached that area at full pool, so it was loaded with vegetation and required a bushwhack to hike back in there. Fresh evidence of deer or sheep droppings could always be seen, but I never actually spotted any. Only one time was I fortunate enough to be able to grab the beach at the end with the submerged tree where we could have hiked, but we traded it in for a shady alcove on the S wall and lived in the water that week because it was so hot. Many great memories from L Gulch.
Week long visits to Llewellyn also marked the beginning of what is now a longstanding early afternoon tradition at the lake. After one particularly hot week, I decided to bring relief from the heat on the next visit. For that trip I packed a couple of metal Vietnamese coffee filters, aka phins, a can of French roast coffee/chicory mix, a can of sweetened condensed milk and started beating the afternoon heat with a drink called Cà phê sūa dá, or Vietnamese coffee; basically very strong coffee, brewed very slow drip style into sweetened condensed milk, stirred and poured over ice and refreshingly sipped down to the very last piece of ice as it melts. Transferred into a insulated steel coffee mug with a lid, it’s enjoyable for hours. Imagine sipping on cold melted Häagen Daz coffee ice cream….Ask for the Cà phê sūa dá sometime as an after dinner drink at a VN restaurant, but be aware it can be a gateway drug into a different version of the coffee addiction world. Don’t say you weren’t warned.
 
i don’t write via ww too much, but will add my
input. for those of you searching for the arches
described above, it’s simple.
do not focus on Llewellyn Gulch, nor Davis Gulch.
the secret is….utilize google earth, on-x, or just seek basic lat/longs
for “leggy arches”.
it’s so simple, the above photos prove so. look again, it’s blatantly
obvious, you’ll agree.
 
Mc…Am I to assume you’re talking about getting the lat/long data from the Exif if still attached to the image? Assuming it has been exposed with a gps recording camera…
 
Llewellyn Gulch was our favorite canyon for camping during the high water years of the mid/late 90’s. High flying, never tiring turkey vultures soaring overhead, several one boat wide, shaded alcove mooring sites on the S wall and towering cascading waterfalls after downpours made the canyon our Lake Powell heaven. In those days I remember reading somewhere, a 90’s Stan Jones map maybe, that there was a big boulder on the bench on the N side, about in the area of the dogleg left as you entered the canyon, that had Wetherill’s name inscribed on it. I spent time during several trips hiking around to photograph it with no success. There was also a T shaped lateral blind, very private, canyon that opened on the N side. Water never encroached that area at full pool, so it was loaded with vegetation and required a bushwhack to hike back in there. Fresh evidence of deer or sheep droppings could always be seen, but I never actually spotted any. Only one time was I fortunate enough to be able to grab the beach at the end with the submerged tree where we could have hiked, but we traded it in for a shady alcove on the S wall and lived in the water that week because it was so hot. Many great memories from L Gulch.
Week long visits to Llewellyn also marked the beginning of what is now a longstanding early afternoon tradition at the lake. After one particularly hot week, I decided to bring relief from the heat on the next visit. For that trip I packed a couple of metal Vietnamese coffee filters, aka phins, a can of French roast coffee/chicory mix, a can of sweetened condensed milk and started beating the afternoon heat with a drink called Cà phê sūa dá, or Vietnamese coffee; basically very strong coffee, brewed very slow drip style into sweetened condensed milk, stirred and poured over ice and refreshingly sipped down to the very last piece of ice as it melts. Transferred into a insulated steel coffee mug with a lid, it’s enjoyable for hours. Imagine sipping on cold melted Häagen Daz coffee ice cream….Ask for the Cà phê sūa dá sometime as an after dinner drink at a VN restaurant, but be aware it can be a gateway drug into a different version of the coffee addiction world. Don’t say you weren’t warned.
Well done!
Who needs a poopy old hike?
Find some shade and enjoy your Ca' phe'. When you drain your coffee reach for the Sing Hah in your backpack.
 
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