Tiff Mapel
Escalante-Class Member
Good morning, Wordlings,
Here's your Wednesday edition of old Lake Powell Magazine articles. We're heading north to Knowles Canyon!
Enjoy,
Tiff
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
On a sunny spring day, five of us went north to hike beautiful Knowles Canyon. The canyon is named for Henry Knowles, a former Utah cattleman. Henry and his brother used to run a herd of cattle in the 1890’s on Mancos Mesa, east of today’s Good Hope Bay. The Knowles brothers are credited with naming their canyon, and building the stock trail down into the canyon from the rim of the mesa.
Knowles Canyon is located north of Halls Crossing marina, at approximately mile 107. It is on the right, or east side as you head uplake, just past Forgotten Canyon. None of us were familiar with Knowles Canyon, but some items on Stan Jones’s map piqued our interest. We were curious about the redbud forest, and something called “Powell’s Profile.”
At the mouth of Knowles Canyon, is a double arch high on the north wall. You’ll have to get right up next to the wall, and you can see a sliver of blue sky behind the top arch. During storms, water will flow down the cliff face behind both arches.
As you boat into Knowles, which is a fairly wide watercourse, you’ll notice the high, majestic Navajo Sandstone walls. They are reminiscent of the towering walls of Iceberg Canyon, further south. They are beautifully striped with desert varnish, and there are large pour-offs in every branch of the canyon. It would be a great place to be in a rainstorm, if you’re searching for waterfalls. Hiking is easy to moderate on the upper Kayenta Formation benches. Also, look for cow trails to hike on; they’re on both sides of the canyon.
Knowles Canyon also has plenty of water in it. At the water’s end on this particular hike, with the water level at 3610, a small waterfall poured down a slickrock chute into a deep basin. This year-round stream flows through the bottom of the canyon. Cottonwoods and Tamarisk grow there, and “horsetail” reeds are plentiful. Walking in the stream basin can be a bushwhack, so should you choose to go that route, wearing pants would be suggested. As you hike up the canyon, you’ll see several small beaver ponds. They are shallow, and dammed with sticks and reeds. We did not observe any fish in the stream or pools, but one lone crawdad. We saw deer tracks in the bottom of the pools. You’ll also see evidence of trees long-felled by beavers in the past. They are very old and dried out. We did see recent evidence of beaver activity too, so they’re still in the canyon. We also found a bleached lower jaw of a beaver, sitting stark white among some red rocks.
Each small branch of the main canyon in Knowles also has water. You can see the water in either seeps or springs. Water is everywhere in Knowles Canyon. Around the seeps, green plants were abundant. At the time of this hike, the cacti were getting ready to bloom their spring bouquets of flowers. Tamarisks were just starting to come out of winter dormancy, and most of the cottonwoods already had their leaves. Ground squirrels and lizards darted about everywhere. Ravens taunted us around lunchtime, and a hawk even let out a piercing cry as it circled overhead. But the sweetest sounds in the canyon came from the canyon wrens, defending their territory, and the trickling melody of the waterfall at the water’s end. Knowles Canyon is a lovely place to be.
According to Stan Jones’s map, in the back left branch of Knowles where the water ends, is a lovely redbud forest that he wrote of as being “a joy to see.” We were hoping to come upon said redbud forest and perhaps catching it in full bloom. It was not to be. We searched every left branch of Knowles, and found not one redbud tree. We compared our Stan Jones map with a Glen Canyon topographic map. We further deduced the location of where the redbud forest should be. There were no redbuds—just cottonwoods and the ever-present tamarisk. What could have happened to the redbuds? Did they run their life cycle? Or when Stan Jones observed them in the early 1960’s, were they under the current water level of Lake Powell? We’ll never know the answer to that one, as the redbuds aren’t talking. They’re no longer there.
Powell’s Profile is another mystery. Almost directly across from where the redbud forest was supposed to be, a likeness of John Wesley Powell could be observed high on the cliff face in the Navajo Sandstone. We scoured the entire right side of the canyon, and found nothing that resembled John Wesley Powell’s profile. Again, Stan Jones observed this feature in the early 1960’s. Perhaps the cliff face has weathered enough that Powell’s Profile is gone. Whatever the reason, the redbud forest and the profile are both gone and will remain a mystery.
Knowles Canyon also has some recent history too. Back in 2001 and 2002, four canyons were tested for water quality: Knowles, Bowns, Forgotten, and Moki. Both Forgotten and Moki are popular summer destinations for boaters, and Knowles and Bowns are less common. Knowles and Bowns Canyons were completely closed for two years—they were the “control” canyons for the water test. Boaters and anglers were not allowed in.
These closures were a result of a San Francisco environmental group that sued the National Park Service in 2000 for their claim that the NPS had not done any recent environmental testing on the impacts of PWC on public waterways. Until testing was completed, all PWC were banned from NPS waters until further notice. The ban was to go into effect in November of 2002. As that was not peak boating season, no one really minded at that time, however, the next year’s boating season would be affected. The watercraft industry and individual boaters banded together in support of keeping PWC access: thousands signed petitions, and letters and e-mails were written to congressmen. The NPS sued for continued access, and the case went to court many times.
Four data collection trips occurred during the two years of the water testing, and water samples were taken in each of the four canyons. Six to nine sites in each canyon were tested. Tests were done in both the shoulder tourist season, and the high-traffic tourist season months. When the results of the tests were completed, they showed traces of pollutants in Knowles and Bowns from boat engine exhaust, and slightly higher levels in Forgotten and Moki. Still, the level of pollutants from normal boating activities was less than EPA regulations. The NPS was able to complete all water testing and the Environmental Impact Statement by September 15th, 2002.
Because of the EPA’s FONSI (Finding Of No Significant Impact) the PWC ban was temporarily lifted. Personal watercraft would be allowed back on Lake Powell beginning May 10th through September 30th, 2003. Eventually, PWC were allowed to stay for good. Knowles and Bowns Canyons were reopened to the public again, allowing everyone to enjoy and appreciate Lake Powell, and however they choose to enjoy it—by boat, PWC, kayak, or even hiking in. Enjoy Knowles Canyon this year, and remember—leave no trace, and be a good neighbor to fellow campers.
Here's your Wednesday edition of old Lake Powell Magazine articles. We're heading north to Knowles Canyon!
Enjoy,
Tiff
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Knowles Canyon
On a sunny spring day, five of us went north to hike beautiful Knowles Canyon. The canyon is named for Henry Knowles, a former Utah cattleman. Henry and his brother used to run a herd of cattle in the 1890’s on Mancos Mesa, east of today’s Good Hope Bay. The Knowles brothers are credited with naming their canyon, and building the stock trail down into the canyon from the rim of the mesa.
Knowles Canyon is located north of Halls Crossing marina, at approximately mile 107. It is on the right, or east side as you head uplake, just past Forgotten Canyon. None of us were familiar with Knowles Canyon, but some items on Stan Jones’s map piqued our interest. We were curious about the redbud forest, and something called “Powell’s Profile.”
At the mouth of Knowles Canyon, is a double arch high on the north wall. You’ll have to get right up next to the wall, and you can see a sliver of blue sky behind the top arch. During storms, water will flow down the cliff face behind both arches.
As you boat into Knowles, which is a fairly wide watercourse, you’ll notice the high, majestic Navajo Sandstone walls. They are reminiscent of the towering walls of Iceberg Canyon, further south. They are beautifully striped with desert varnish, and there are large pour-offs in every branch of the canyon. It would be a great place to be in a rainstorm, if you’re searching for waterfalls. Hiking is easy to moderate on the upper Kayenta Formation benches. Also, look for cow trails to hike on; they’re on both sides of the canyon.
Knowles Canyon also has plenty of water in it. At the water’s end on this particular hike, with the water level at 3610, a small waterfall poured down a slickrock chute into a deep basin. This year-round stream flows through the bottom of the canyon. Cottonwoods and Tamarisk grow there, and “horsetail” reeds are plentiful. Walking in the stream basin can be a bushwhack, so should you choose to go that route, wearing pants would be suggested. As you hike up the canyon, you’ll see several small beaver ponds. They are shallow, and dammed with sticks and reeds. We did not observe any fish in the stream or pools, but one lone crawdad. We saw deer tracks in the bottom of the pools. You’ll also see evidence of trees long-felled by beavers in the past. They are very old and dried out. We did see recent evidence of beaver activity too, so they’re still in the canyon. We also found a bleached lower jaw of a beaver, sitting stark white among some red rocks.
Each small branch of the main canyon in Knowles also has water. You can see the water in either seeps or springs. Water is everywhere in Knowles Canyon. Around the seeps, green plants were abundant. At the time of this hike, the cacti were getting ready to bloom their spring bouquets of flowers. Tamarisks were just starting to come out of winter dormancy, and most of the cottonwoods already had their leaves. Ground squirrels and lizards darted about everywhere. Ravens taunted us around lunchtime, and a hawk even let out a piercing cry as it circled overhead. But the sweetest sounds in the canyon came from the canyon wrens, defending their territory, and the trickling melody of the waterfall at the water’s end. Knowles Canyon is a lovely place to be.
According to Stan Jones’s map, in the back left branch of Knowles where the water ends, is a lovely redbud forest that he wrote of as being “a joy to see.” We were hoping to come upon said redbud forest and perhaps catching it in full bloom. It was not to be. We searched every left branch of Knowles, and found not one redbud tree. We compared our Stan Jones map with a Glen Canyon topographic map. We further deduced the location of where the redbud forest should be. There were no redbuds—just cottonwoods and the ever-present tamarisk. What could have happened to the redbuds? Did they run their life cycle? Or when Stan Jones observed them in the early 1960’s, were they under the current water level of Lake Powell? We’ll never know the answer to that one, as the redbuds aren’t talking. They’re no longer there.
Powell’s Profile is another mystery. Almost directly across from where the redbud forest was supposed to be, a likeness of John Wesley Powell could be observed high on the cliff face in the Navajo Sandstone. We scoured the entire right side of the canyon, and found nothing that resembled John Wesley Powell’s profile. Again, Stan Jones observed this feature in the early 1960’s. Perhaps the cliff face has weathered enough that Powell’s Profile is gone. Whatever the reason, the redbud forest and the profile are both gone and will remain a mystery.
Knowles Canyon also has some recent history too. Back in 2001 and 2002, four canyons were tested for water quality: Knowles, Bowns, Forgotten, and Moki. Both Forgotten and Moki are popular summer destinations for boaters, and Knowles and Bowns are less common. Knowles and Bowns Canyons were completely closed for two years—they were the “control” canyons for the water test. Boaters and anglers were not allowed in.
These closures were a result of a San Francisco environmental group that sued the National Park Service in 2000 for their claim that the NPS had not done any recent environmental testing on the impacts of PWC on public waterways. Until testing was completed, all PWC were banned from NPS waters until further notice. The ban was to go into effect in November of 2002. As that was not peak boating season, no one really minded at that time, however, the next year’s boating season would be affected. The watercraft industry and individual boaters banded together in support of keeping PWC access: thousands signed petitions, and letters and e-mails were written to congressmen. The NPS sued for continued access, and the case went to court many times.
Four data collection trips occurred during the two years of the water testing, and water samples were taken in each of the four canyons. Six to nine sites in each canyon were tested. Tests were done in both the shoulder tourist season, and the high-traffic tourist season months. When the results of the tests were completed, they showed traces of pollutants in Knowles and Bowns from boat engine exhaust, and slightly higher levels in Forgotten and Moki. Still, the level of pollutants from normal boating activities was less than EPA regulations. The NPS was able to complete all water testing and the Environmental Impact Statement by September 15th, 2002.
Because of the EPA’s FONSI (Finding Of No Significant Impact) the PWC ban was temporarily lifted. Personal watercraft would be allowed back on Lake Powell beginning May 10th through September 30th, 2003. Eventually, PWC were allowed to stay for good. Knowles and Bowns Canyons were reopened to the public again, allowing everyone to enjoy and appreciate Lake Powell, and however they choose to enjoy it—by boat, PWC, kayak, or even hiking in. Enjoy Knowles Canyon this year, and remember—leave no trace, and be a good neighbor to fellow campers.
