JFRCalifornia
Keeper of San Juan Secrets
In case anybody has an extra Lake Powell day to spare, I highly recommend kayaking from just below the dam to Lees Ferry. I had been on this stretch of the river before, but never in a kayak. The slow and quiet pace of the kayak makes a difference. This is the last remnant of Glen Canyon that was not dammed, so it gives you a pretty good idea of what much of Glen Canyon looked like before Lake Powell. The primary difference from 1955, of course, is that the water is cold and clear, but the slow pace, the birds, the light, the sky, and the opportunity to pull over and just sit and enjoy the sounds of the canyon are probably very similar. The 12 miles or so that I kayaked probably took about 5 hours, with stops, but honestly, it would have been better if I'd stopped more often. An earlier start would have helped.
In a lot of ways, it felt very much like being on Lake Powell. Same geology, same placid wide water, same kinds of beaches. But no wake boats.
There are several good campsites and bathrooms along the way, so plenty of places to eat lunch or just hang out. Take your time. That's kind of the point.
There are many highlights, including a very nice panel of petroglyphs, and farther down, a worthwhile stop and hike up Water Holes Canyon, the only real tributary stream along the way. Although it feels like you're out in the middle of nowhere on that hike, you're probably only 2 miles from Highway 89 as you walk up that canyon. Lots of deep pools and twisting narrows as you continue up. But even a short walk is worth it, one of the only places along the whole way you can find some mid-day shade...
One bizarre highlight: watching canyoneers rappel down the side of the cliff from Ferry Swale Canyon into the river with their kayaks. I guess that's one way to get on the river....
I was worried at first about fast boats making waves for all the kayaks, but that's not really an issue. As a kayaking experience, it's a much safer and easier kayak than trying to deal with the main channel on Lake Powell--slower boats, less wind and chop, but mostly, you've got the current in your favor. I rented a kayak, and you've got to pay for the backhaul upstream, but that was well worth it.
One word of advice: cover up. Your head, neck, arms, legs, hands, feet. All of it. You're tempted to take in the sun, but after about an hour or so, I noticed the kayakers getting progressively redder and complaining about burning. And really, there's no quick exit if you're out in the sun....
Bring a lunch, a camera, and enjoy.
In a lot of ways, it felt very much like being on Lake Powell. Same geology, same placid wide water, same kinds of beaches. But no wake boats.
There are several good campsites and bathrooms along the way, so plenty of places to eat lunch or just hang out. Take your time. That's kind of the point.
There are many highlights, including a very nice panel of petroglyphs, and farther down, a worthwhile stop and hike up Water Holes Canyon, the only real tributary stream along the way. Although it feels like you're out in the middle of nowhere on that hike, you're probably only 2 miles from Highway 89 as you walk up that canyon. Lots of deep pools and twisting narrows as you continue up. But even a short walk is worth it, one of the only places along the whole way you can find some mid-day shade...
One bizarre highlight: watching canyoneers rappel down the side of the cliff from Ferry Swale Canyon into the river with their kayaks. I guess that's one way to get on the river....
I was worried at first about fast boats making waves for all the kayaks, but that's not really an issue. As a kayaking experience, it's a much safer and easier kayak than trying to deal with the main channel on Lake Powell--slower boats, less wind and chop, but mostly, you've got the current in your favor. I rented a kayak, and you've got to pay for the backhaul upstream, but that was well worth it.
One word of advice: cover up. Your head, neck, arms, legs, hands, feet. All of it. You're tempted to take in the sun, but after about an hour or so, I noticed the kayakers getting progressively redder and complaining about burning. And really, there's no quick exit if you're out in the sun....
Bring a lunch, a camera, and enjoy.
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