Tiff Mapel
Escalante-Class Member
Good morning, Wordlings,
We're off to Cottonwood Canyon! Probably doesn't have much water in it these days..... Haven't been there in years.
Tiff
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
At higher water levels, Cottonwood Canyon extends a mile or so, and Cottonwood Creek drains into the lake. The scenery is some of the prettiest on the lake, with rounded Navajo Sandstone domes, great beaches, and perfect camping spots. Just as each canyon at Lake Powell has its own personality and history, Cottonwood Canyon is no exception. To get more acquainted with Cottonwood Canyon, you must first know its history. About a thousand years ago, the Ancestral Puebloan people called Cottonwood home. Although the ruins aren’t marked on any maps, they are there. You can still spot the occasional granary, or small piles of rocks that used to be ruins.
If you are in Cottonwood Canyon and are facing out toward the main channel, look directly across the lake. One of the most famous landmarks on Lake Powell is there—“Hole in the Rock.” This is a narrow notch from the canyon rim that drops down toward Lake Powell, and was the site of an epic journey made long ago.
Back when our country was just over 100 years old and the west was still largely wild and untamed, a large group of people braved crossing the Colorado River searching for a new place to call home. Back in the early winter of November, 1879, Mormon colonists were sent by the L.D.S. church to establish themselves in the San Juan Valley. It was known as the San Juan Mission. There were about 230 to 250 people—men, women, and children, in 83 wagons, with about 1,000 head of cattle and horses making this trip. When they arrived at the precipice overlooking the Colorado River, the crack which was to become Hole in the Rock, was their only option down to the river crossing. Using gun powder, the men began blasting the crack wider, preparing it for the wagons. It took 60 days to prepare the dugway at Hole in the Rock before the wagons were lowered down. The slope down to the river was anywhere from 25 to 45 degrees, and amazingly, all wagons, people, and animals made the trip down to the river.
Back then, there was a ferry near Hole in the Rock run by none other than Charles Hall and his sons. He built the ferry himself using trees near the river, and it was large enough for two of the wagons at a time. Hall would later run another ferry at Hall’s Crossing, 35 miles upstream from Hole in the Rock, and is the namesake of the current-day marina. Visitors to Hole in the Rock today should note that time has taken its toll on the old wagon route. It looks very different than it did in 1879/1880. Erosion has changed it, and many large boulders have fallen down from the rim. You can still hike it today on foot, though. When you see steps carved into the sandstone, those were picked in by later miners of the Hoskaninni Company. The miners were searching for gold in the bars along the Colorado River, and used the Hole in the Rock route up until 1900.
With 83 wagons, nearly 250 people, and 1000 animals, it took quite a while to get everyone ferried across the river safely. Once on the other shore, the Mormon pioneers had to build more road base and move large boulders so the wagons could roll as smooth as possible up through Register Rocks. When the water level of Lake Powell dropped to its lowest point in the early spring of 2005, you could still see some of this old road base. Rocks are still stacked neatly, and you can see remnants of the old road the wagons took to get up through Cottonwood Canyon. As the pioneers paused at Register Rocks, some of the party took time to inscribe some of their names in the nearby rock.
The Hole in the Rock party camped a short way into Cottonwood Canyon to rest while another road was built up to the top of Grey Mesa, also called Wilson Mesa. There was a creek and ample forage in the canyon, so it was a hospitable place to camp. Meanwhile, the men of the party blasted, picked, and stacked rocks to make the road base for the eventual ascent of the wagons. Once atop Grey Mesa, the party wound their way over slickrock, sand, and difficult desert terrain. To their right, Wilson Canyon plunged down toward the San Juan River. To their distant left, they stopped again near a welcome lake with plenty of trees. This was Lake Pagahrit in the head of Lake Canyon. It held back floodwaters by a natural sand dam. The pioneer party rested here for a bit before continuing on to establish the town of Bluff, Utah. Lake Pagahrit no longer exists, but one can still see evidence of it. Back in 1915, an abundance of winter precipitation filled the lake and it breached its sand dam. The lake drained rapidly, gushing down Lake Canyon and into the Colorado River. The San Juan Mission party journey was to take six weeks, and it ended up taking six months. The travelers were thoroughly exhausted by then. Amazingly, no lives were lost on this journey and three babies were born during those six months.
Today’s Cottonwood Canyon at Lake Powell is worthy of exploration by both boat and foot. At lower water levels, there is plenty of beach to put boats while you hike and explore the canyon. At higher water levels, you can make it in nearly a mile. The first left branch you come to is a small inlet that ends in a large bowl-shaped alcove. You might be able to pick up a faint trail to the left. Look up into the cliff, and a small ruin rests on a ledge.
Back out into the main channel of Cottonwood Canyon, the beautiful Navajo Sandstone domes dominate the canyon. The Kayenta Formation, just below the Navajo Sandstone, is also visible in this canyon. Where the water ends, there is plenty of space to beach a boat to begin the hike. Look for the well-worn trail through the sand. It heads up the hillside and to the right. Also, look for the interpretive signs along the way. The National Park Service put these signs up with various pictures and descriptions of the San Juan Mission’s journey through the canyon long ago. The rock piles of the road base are still evident in places, and when the trail crosses the slickrock, you can see the ruts in the sandstone where 83 wagons rolled across. Before the trail tops out on the upper bench, look in the various small canyons for more ruins. Further along the route, as if the Mormon party didn’t have enough hardships on their journey, they encountered a large hill of sand that was a formidable obstacle for the wagons.
The great thing about the Cottonwood Canyon hike is, you can go as far as you’d like, but be sure to account for the return trip to the boat as well. If you’re being dropped off by a boat, you can hike all the way up to Grey Mesa where a car can pick you up from the other side of the Hole in the Rock Road, a four-wheel drive dirt road that hooks up with Utah State Highway 276. Other options would be to hike down into Wilson Creek of the San Juan Arm, or even further to east Lake Canyon where you can visit Fortress Ruin. Be advised though, this hike is 18 miles one-way.
With the much-needed spring runoff raising Lake Powell’s water level once again, Cottonwood is sure to be one of the hot spots this summer. Get set for some amazing hiking, and a summer history lesson too. Enjoy Cottonwood, and remember to take plenty of pictures, leave only footprints, and stay on the trail!
We're off to Cottonwood Canyon! Probably doesn't have much water in it these days..... Haven't been there in years.
Tiff
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cottonwood Canyon
One of Lake Powell’s finest canyons is undoubtedly Cottonwood Canyon. Located at buoy #66 on the river-left side of the channel, Cottonwood Canyon has two entrances: one through Register Rocks at higher water levels, and the more common one just downstream from Register Rocks. Cottonwood is a popular destination for boaters and hikers alike, and is an old favorite among Lake Powell visitors.
At higher water levels, Cottonwood Canyon extends a mile or so, and Cottonwood Creek drains into the lake. The scenery is some of the prettiest on the lake, with rounded Navajo Sandstone domes, great beaches, and perfect camping spots. Just as each canyon at Lake Powell has its own personality and history, Cottonwood Canyon is no exception. To get more acquainted with Cottonwood Canyon, you must first know its history. About a thousand years ago, the Ancestral Puebloan people called Cottonwood home. Although the ruins aren’t marked on any maps, they are there. You can still spot the occasional granary, or small piles of rocks that used to be ruins.
If you are in Cottonwood Canyon and are facing out toward the main channel, look directly across the lake. One of the most famous landmarks on Lake Powell is there—“Hole in the Rock.” This is a narrow notch from the canyon rim that drops down toward Lake Powell, and was the site of an epic journey made long ago.
Back when our country was just over 100 years old and the west was still largely wild and untamed, a large group of people braved crossing the Colorado River searching for a new place to call home. Back in the early winter of November, 1879, Mormon colonists were sent by the L.D.S. church to establish themselves in the San Juan Valley. It was known as the San Juan Mission. There were about 230 to 250 people—men, women, and children, in 83 wagons, with about 1,000 head of cattle and horses making this trip. When they arrived at the precipice overlooking the Colorado River, the crack which was to become Hole in the Rock, was their only option down to the river crossing. Using gun powder, the men began blasting the crack wider, preparing it for the wagons. It took 60 days to prepare the dugway at Hole in the Rock before the wagons were lowered down. The slope down to the river was anywhere from 25 to 45 degrees, and amazingly, all wagons, people, and animals made the trip down to the river.
Back then, there was a ferry near Hole in the Rock run by none other than Charles Hall and his sons. He built the ferry himself using trees near the river, and it was large enough for two of the wagons at a time. Hall would later run another ferry at Hall’s Crossing, 35 miles upstream from Hole in the Rock, and is the namesake of the current-day marina. Visitors to Hole in the Rock today should note that time has taken its toll on the old wagon route. It looks very different than it did in 1879/1880. Erosion has changed it, and many large boulders have fallen down from the rim. You can still hike it today on foot, though. When you see steps carved into the sandstone, those were picked in by later miners of the Hoskaninni Company. The miners were searching for gold in the bars along the Colorado River, and used the Hole in the Rock route up until 1900.
With 83 wagons, nearly 250 people, and 1000 animals, it took quite a while to get everyone ferried across the river safely. Once on the other shore, the Mormon pioneers had to build more road base and move large boulders so the wagons could roll as smooth as possible up through Register Rocks. When the water level of Lake Powell dropped to its lowest point in the early spring of 2005, you could still see some of this old road base. Rocks are still stacked neatly, and you can see remnants of the old road the wagons took to get up through Cottonwood Canyon. As the pioneers paused at Register Rocks, some of the party took time to inscribe some of their names in the nearby rock.
The Hole in the Rock party camped a short way into Cottonwood Canyon to rest while another road was built up to the top of Grey Mesa, also called Wilson Mesa. There was a creek and ample forage in the canyon, so it was a hospitable place to camp. Meanwhile, the men of the party blasted, picked, and stacked rocks to make the road base for the eventual ascent of the wagons. Once atop Grey Mesa, the party wound their way over slickrock, sand, and difficult desert terrain. To their right, Wilson Canyon plunged down toward the San Juan River. To their distant left, they stopped again near a welcome lake with plenty of trees. This was Lake Pagahrit in the head of Lake Canyon. It held back floodwaters by a natural sand dam. The pioneer party rested here for a bit before continuing on to establish the town of Bluff, Utah. Lake Pagahrit no longer exists, but one can still see evidence of it. Back in 1915, an abundance of winter precipitation filled the lake and it breached its sand dam. The lake drained rapidly, gushing down Lake Canyon and into the Colorado River. The San Juan Mission party journey was to take six weeks, and it ended up taking six months. The travelers were thoroughly exhausted by then. Amazingly, no lives were lost on this journey and three babies were born during those six months.
Today’s Cottonwood Canyon at Lake Powell is worthy of exploration by both boat and foot. At lower water levels, there is plenty of beach to put boats while you hike and explore the canyon. At higher water levels, you can make it in nearly a mile. The first left branch you come to is a small inlet that ends in a large bowl-shaped alcove. You might be able to pick up a faint trail to the left. Look up into the cliff, and a small ruin rests on a ledge.
Back out into the main channel of Cottonwood Canyon, the beautiful Navajo Sandstone domes dominate the canyon. The Kayenta Formation, just below the Navajo Sandstone, is also visible in this canyon. Where the water ends, there is plenty of space to beach a boat to begin the hike. Look for the well-worn trail through the sand. It heads up the hillside and to the right. Also, look for the interpretive signs along the way. The National Park Service put these signs up with various pictures and descriptions of the San Juan Mission’s journey through the canyon long ago. The rock piles of the road base are still evident in places, and when the trail crosses the slickrock, you can see the ruts in the sandstone where 83 wagons rolled across. Before the trail tops out on the upper bench, look in the various small canyons for more ruins. Further along the route, as if the Mormon party didn’t have enough hardships on their journey, they encountered a large hill of sand that was a formidable obstacle for the wagons.
The great thing about the Cottonwood Canyon hike is, you can go as far as you’d like, but be sure to account for the return trip to the boat as well. If you’re being dropped off by a boat, you can hike all the way up to Grey Mesa where a car can pick you up from the other side of the Hole in the Rock Road, a four-wheel drive dirt road that hooks up with Utah State Highway 276. Other options would be to hike down into Wilson Creek of the San Juan Arm, or even further to east Lake Canyon where you can visit Fortress Ruin. Be advised though, this hike is 18 miles one-way.
With the much-needed spring runoff raising Lake Powell’s water level once again, Cottonwood is sure to be one of the hot spots this summer. Get set for some amazing hiking, and a summer history lesson too. Enjoy Cottonwood, and remember to take plenty of pictures, leave only footprints, and stay on the trail!
